So, the Sapporo Snow Festival was high up on my list of things I must do in Japan. I even knew when it was ahead of time. I usually know my schedule well in advance and usually have to decide what days I want off well ahead of time. (Though apparently I can switch them pretty last minute with no real consequence). But I didn't have my schedule for February for a while. And most of my money was being consumed by my massive Christmas trip. So I waited to book my flight and hotel despite the obvious consequences I foresaw.
Sure enough, by the time I began to look for a flight, prices had skyrocketed. Like $1,000 high skyrocketed. It was almost cheaper to fly back to Chicago. I wanted to go, but not that bad. I tried going to a travel agent and everything, there was simply no way.
Then my friend posted on Facebook about a last minute decision to fly to Sapporo and how happy she was. When I asked her, I found out about discount airlines that could get me there and back at a huge fraction of the price. All I had to do was go to Osaka and fly from there instead of Fukuoka.
So I booked a flight and figured maybe I would find a hotel.
No.
But this is when I came up with a brilliant plan: CAMPING!
I figured my sleeping bag I already had would be fine, but I would need emergency blankets as a back up, and a tent. And then manga cafes as a back up back up. However, no one in Japan seemed to sell them. I asked all kinds of stores.
I was going to try to one more place when I realized I was supposed to fly Friday morning, not Saturday morning and thus had to be in Osaka that night. So I had no chance to buy a tent, but I asked my friend if he would drive me to the local Shinkansen and thus I would also have time to go to the outdoor shop next to it for emergency blankets. Instead he drove me to the much farther central station in the center of the city and I had to take a train back.
I finally arrived in Osaka and found the hostel eventually. My flight was really super early because I wanted to maximize my time, so I discovered I would have to wake up at like 4AM. It was already late, so some people were sleeping in the room. My phone was on silent, but I figured it knew better since I was setting an alarm. I vaguely remembered my alarm not ringing last time it was on silent mode and this causing problems before, but I dismissed the thought by blaming it on "comfort mode" and decided not to test it lest I should bother someone.
And then I slept.
And I slept.
And I woke up feeling fairly refreshed.
Which terrified me.
I looked at my clock and sure enough, it had been ringing quietly to itself for two hours.
I jumped out of bed and grabbed all my things and ran out of the place. There was no way I could catch my plane. It would be departing before I even got to the airport bus.
I got to the bus depot and waited, then I got to the airport finally. The only available flight online was late in the evening and I was already missing a lot of time, so I asked one of the counters about flying standby. Sure enough it was possible, but it was super expensive. Nearly twice my original ticket. All other seats were taken, so it was my only choice.
I waited for a little while then decided to ask a different company. They had no open seats, but for nearly the same price as my standby ticket, I could fly premium class. So I decided to go for it.
Between my original plane tickets, the train tickets, and the new plane ticket, as well as expenses I made before the trip, I had almost no money for the rest of the month or even the rest of the trip. But at least I got to sit in a cushy lounge for a bit.
When I arrived in Sapporo, I was greeted by a massive snow storm. The person next to me suddenly got chatty and said how he didn't want to go outside and that it wasn't like this last week. I was excited of course.
I had to wait for my knife to show up at baggage check. I had to check it in alone because I had tried to avoid checking in luggage because my original airline charged a lot to have checked in luggage. Or at least if you didn't request it ahead of time. So they gave my knife a giant box all to itself. Finally, I got it and set out.
The biggest problem with Winter is not the cold, but the heat. I was stuck on a train for forever while they blasted the heaters. I had no where to sit so I just suffered in the heat with all my luggage.
Finally we arrived in Sapporo. It was awesome. I felt like I was back at home.
Being in the South means that despite everyone's constant bitching, it is never very cold and never snows. But Sapporo was covered in it, and it just kept coming.
I decided my first goal should be to find somewhere to return to for sleep at night so I wouldn't have to search in the dark. The park seemed like a likely choice, but it was closed, but near it was a great place. The snow only added to my ability to stay out of view.
Shortly after I found my place to sleep, the guy I met in Osaka messaged me and asked if I wanted to join him. I said I would, but it sounded expensive, far, and like everyone would leave before I got there. I set out to meet them, but along the way I accidentally stumbled upon the main part of the festival. I decided to check out the festival instead.
I wandered around, looking at the snow sculptures through the snow and enjoyed some strange hot vegetable milk. I went all the way from one end of the festival to the next. The statues and things were pretty cool to look at, but didn't take much more time than the time it took to walk a few blocks. Some people were repairing them or even building new ones even though the festival was ending soon.
When I finished looking at all the statues, I decided to wander around the city a little more, but then got close to the other major part of the festival. I found my way over and looked at all the ice statues. While the main part was mostly snow sculptures, this was all ice. There was also nowhere to walk to look at them up close as they were built on the median of a busy street.
They took even less time to look at and I headed to a McDonald's to recharge and get warm.
I considered sleeping in the McDonald's, but decided to go with my first plan and I found my way back to my camp site.
I finally found the location I had selected earlier. It was still blizzarding, so I had choose a spot under an open gazebo behind a sign. The sign would provide camouflage and cover. I climbed up into the snow and laid out my things for sleep. Unfortunately, much like Japanese buildings, the city proved to have poor insulation, and the temperature plunged. I tried to sleep for hours, but eventually I had to concede defeat.
I got up, tried to pack up my things, and headed to the manga cafe I had designated as a back up. Just as the rumors said, staying at one was cheap. And it was fairly comfortable. They even had a shower. I got myself a computer room to get some sleep. Before I did that though, I walked around a bit and peered over the low walls of some of the other computer rooms. Sure enough, while most people were also sleeping or doing mundane things, there were a few rooms where people were watching porn.
In the morning, I set out, bought a new memory card so I could take more photos, and went to go see the rest of the festival. My friend from earlier tried to invite me to some chocolate factory which sounded like a huge waste of money, but I wanted to see how it compared to the one in Germany. So, despite knowing that they would probably be done by the time I got there, I went anyway. Sure enough, I was right. The place was not only rather new, but there was nothing factory about it. Tickets were incredibly expensive, and all you got to see was a few rooms of irrelevant things. They still have the obligatory colorful fake gears spinning in the windows though. I foolishly bought a ticket to make (well, decorate) a cookie, and by the time I had found my friend (in the cafeteria, having finished the tour without me), I immediately had to go make the cookie. So, the whole trip I only saw him maybe a minute or two.
The actual cookie-making process was pretty lame. You got tubes of white or milk chocolate, which was difficult to use. You could use them to write and attach smaller cookies in the shapes of things. I had been speaking some Japanese and the foreign lady next to me asked if I wanted my picture taken. I blanked on how to say, "Nah, I'm good," and made the situation kind of awkward, and she told me she could speak in English if I needed, which only then made me feel defeated.
I ate the extra material and left feeling I had wasted a lot of time and money. I headed to the last part of the festival, which was out at the sports dome. When I got there, I quickly realized it was the children's part. There were tiny rides and small slides and snowman building and all kinds of kids stuff. There was a marimo stand though, so I bought some for my friend. I kind of wanted my own, but I was running out of money.
I walked around, saw everything, then headed back. On my way back, in a 100 yen store, I managed to find Japan's closest approximation to emergency blankets. They were massive and didn't look as effective, but I figured it would lead to a more successful camping experience.
I wasn't sure what to do with my time, so I wandered around and saw the parts I already saw in the light. I then tried to get tickets for the Hatsune Miku concert, but realized they were rather expensive and distributed by lottery. I then spent like an hour and a half, going from one end of the festival to the next because I kept reading the map wrong where the concert was. I had thought maybe the sound would bleed through the walls or maybe there would be a TV broadcast or something. There wasn't, and I wasn't even allowed into the gift shop without a ticket.
I then set out to try some Sapporo specialty food. I found the famous ramen street and looked at all the shops. I saw one shop with miso ramen, the special ramen of Sapporo, but there was only a foreigner sitting inside. I wanted to avoid flooding the store with foreigners, but it looked like my best bet to get miso ramen. Shortly after I came in, the guy began to talk to me. Apparently he helped build shinkansen and lived in Chicago like me. Shortly after, another foreigner came in. They made jokes about how this was the only place with an English menu. The new guy had apparently traveled the world and seen many small places and festivals. After we parted ways, the first guy joked how he wished he had that kind of money.
I camped out at the same McDonald's again until it was late enough to try to get some sleep again. I tried to find where I had stayed last time, but couldn't seem to find it and got a little lost even. Fortunately, I was still in Japan and thus had GPS. I found a pretty suitable spot, and since there was no wind and it wasn't snowing and I had finally bought emergency blankets, that this night would be successful.
It wasn't. This time I remembered to dig out a flat place to lay, but the emergency blankets were pretty useless and the cold seeped through the tarp, sleeping bag, and blankets pretty rapidly. After only a few hours, I had to give up. I went back to the manga cafe again. This time, all the rooms were booked, so I had to sleep in a chair without a room. It was still better than nothing, and I was able to get some sleep.
The next day, I tried to go to the Ainu museum like I had wanted. It was a bit difficult to find, but I found some Ainu community center instead. I wasn't allowed to take photos, so I was a bit disappointed, but they were doing some kind of workshops so I tried to participate. There was basically just a few old people speaking in Japanese, making fairly useless-looking things in a corner, and a TV that had some really repetitive Ainu dance going. There was a man making some kind of carven wood things and I was sat down by him to make such a thing.
I was pretty awful at it, and the right-handed tools were a bit of a problem, but mostly my lack of skill. At one point, he had to erase the whole thing and I had to start over because I did so bad. Eventually I made something passable and found out it was a string holder.
I told them I was interested in learning Ainu so one of them took me up to where the museum and pamphlets were stored. The place was closed because it was Sunday. The guy asked what I was interested in, gave me some pamphlets, explained something to me, showed me where the museum was and turned on the lights, said something (presumably to turn off the lights when I am done), turned off the lights, then walked away. Instead of taking the chance to look at the museum (which was only a single room it looked like), I followed the guy. He then talked on the phone for a bit, then asked how long I would need. Instead of going and looking at the museum like I wanted, I said I was done, thanked him and left. I felt pretty stupid for not understanding what had been said and for missing my chance to see the museum.
I then decided I had seen and done everything I was going to be able to do in the city and left for the airport. I bought some souvenirs, as is required in Japan, and then tried to check in. When I checked in, I had to do something about my knife. Unfortunately, my discount airline would charge a ridiculous price to check in the knife, so I had to mail it. Which was also super expensive. I didn't even use the knife.
I finally boarded, flew back to Osaka, spent the night, and went home without further complication. Apparently, unbeknownst to me, two of my friends were staying at the same hostel as me the floor above me. I only found out afterwards.
I got home and was glad to be back in the warm South where they still sell flowers outside, though without insulation or heating in my home, it didn't make much difference.
I finally found the location I had selected earlier. It was still blizzarding, so I had choose a spot under an open gazebo behind a sign. The sign would provide camouflage and cover. I climbed up into the snow and laid out my things for sleep. Unfortunately, much like Japanese buildings, the city proved to have poor insulation, and the temperature plunged. I tried to sleep for hours, but eventually I had to concede defeat.
I got up, tried to pack up my things, and headed to the manga cafe I had designated as a back up. Just as the rumors said, staying at one was cheap. And it was fairly comfortable. They even had a shower. I got myself a computer room to get some sleep. Before I did that though, I walked around a bit and peered over the low walls of some of the other computer rooms. Sure enough, while most people were also sleeping or doing mundane things, there were a few rooms where people were watching porn.
In the morning, I set out, bought a new memory card so I could take more photos, and went to go see the rest of the festival. My friend from earlier tried to invite me to some chocolate factory which sounded like a huge waste of money, but I wanted to see how it compared to the one in Germany. So, despite knowing that they would probably be done by the time I got there, I went anyway. Sure enough, I was right. The place was not only rather new, but there was nothing factory about it. Tickets were incredibly expensive, and all you got to see was a few rooms of irrelevant things. They still have the obligatory colorful fake gears spinning in the windows though. I foolishly bought a ticket to make (well, decorate) a cookie, and by the time I had found my friend (in the cafeteria, having finished the tour without me), I immediately had to go make the cookie. So, the whole trip I only saw him maybe a minute or two.
The actual cookie-making process was pretty lame. You got tubes of white or milk chocolate, which was difficult to use. You could use them to write and attach smaller cookies in the shapes of things. I had been speaking some Japanese and the foreign lady next to me asked if I wanted my picture taken. I blanked on how to say, "Nah, I'm good," and made the situation kind of awkward, and she told me she could speak in English if I needed, which only then made me feel defeated.
I ate the extra material and left feeling I had wasted a lot of time and money. I headed to the last part of the festival, which was out at the sports dome. When I got there, I quickly realized it was the children's part. There were tiny rides and small slides and snowman building and all kinds of kids stuff. There was a marimo stand though, so I bought some for my friend. I kind of wanted my own, but I was running out of money.
I walked around, saw everything, then headed back. On my way back, in a 100 yen store, I managed to find Japan's closest approximation to emergency blankets. They were massive and didn't look as effective, but I figured it would lead to a more successful camping experience.
I wasn't sure what to do with my time, so I wandered around and saw the parts I already saw in the light. I then tried to get tickets for the Hatsune Miku concert, but realized they were rather expensive and distributed by lottery. I then spent like an hour and a half, going from one end of the festival to the next because I kept reading the map wrong where the concert was. I had thought maybe the sound would bleed through the walls or maybe there would be a TV broadcast or something. There wasn't, and I wasn't even allowed into the gift shop without a ticket.
I then set out to try some Sapporo specialty food. I found the famous ramen street and looked at all the shops. I saw one shop with miso ramen, the special ramen of Sapporo, but there was only a foreigner sitting inside. I wanted to avoid flooding the store with foreigners, but it looked like my best bet to get miso ramen. Shortly after I came in, the guy began to talk to me. Apparently he helped build shinkansen and lived in Chicago like me. Shortly after, another foreigner came in. They made jokes about how this was the only place with an English menu. The new guy had apparently traveled the world and seen many small places and festivals. After we parted ways, the first guy joked how he wished he had that kind of money.
I camped out at the same McDonald's again until it was late enough to try to get some sleep again. I tried to find where I had stayed last time, but couldn't seem to find it and got a little lost even. Fortunately, I was still in Japan and thus had GPS. I found a pretty suitable spot, and since there was no wind and it wasn't snowing and I had finally bought emergency blankets, that this night would be successful.
It wasn't. This time I remembered to dig out a flat place to lay, but the emergency blankets were pretty useless and the cold seeped through the tarp, sleeping bag, and blankets pretty rapidly. After only a few hours, I had to give up. I went back to the manga cafe again. This time, all the rooms were booked, so I had to sleep in a chair without a room. It was still better than nothing, and I was able to get some sleep.
The next day, I tried to go to the Ainu museum like I had wanted. It was a bit difficult to find, but I found some Ainu community center instead. I wasn't allowed to take photos, so I was a bit disappointed, but they were doing some kind of workshops so I tried to participate. There was basically just a few old people speaking in Japanese, making fairly useless-looking things in a corner, and a TV that had some really repetitive Ainu dance going. There was a man making some kind of carven wood things and I was sat down by him to make such a thing.
I was pretty awful at it, and the right-handed tools were a bit of a problem, but mostly my lack of skill. At one point, he had to erase the whole thing and I had to start over because I did so bad. Eventually I made something passable and found out it was a string holder.
I told them I was interested in learning Ainu so one of them took me up to where the museum and pamphlets were stored. The place was closed because it was Sunday. The guy asked what I was interested in, gave me some pamphlets, explained something to me, showed me where the museum was and turned on the lights, said something (presumably to turn off the lights when I am done), turned off the lights, then walked away. Instead of taking the chance to look at the museum (which was only a single room it looked like), I followed the guy. He then talked on the phone for a bit, then asked how long I would need. Instead of going and looking at the museum like I wanted, I said I was done, thanked him and left. I felt pretty stupid for not understanding what had been said and for missing my chance to see the museum.
I then decided I had seen and done everything I was going to be able to do in the city and left for the airport. I bought some souvenirs, as is required in Japan, and then tried to check in. When I checked in, I had to do something about my knife. Unfortunately, my discount airline would charge a ridiculous price to check in the knife, so I had to mail it. Which was also super expensive. I didn't even use the knife.
I finally boarded, flew back to Osaka, spent the night, and went home without further complication. Apparently, unbeknownst to me, two of my friends were staying at the same hostel as me the floor above me. I only found out afterwards.
I got home and was glad to be back in the warm South where they still sell flowers outside, though without insulation or heating in my home, it didn't make much difference.